This article is not intended to regurgitate information readily available on the Internet, but rather serve as a compendium of extremely well written and informative articles on the subject floating around cyberspace. It seems that “Bonsai” is shrouded in a mystical “aura”, a lot of myths have surfaced over the years, and the Internet further exacerbates them. It is no wonder folks who take up “Bonsai” are often confused. It is extremely difficult to decipher between facts and myths when, even reference books written on the subject seem to contradict each other.

Up until the 90s when the Internet was born, bonsai enthusiasts were few and far between. Information was very scarce and often only available in books. There was a lot of trial and error on the part of enthusiasts and even “Western Masters.” This trial and error period didn’t necessarily lead to best practices. Individuals lacking in practical knowledge and experience (relative to today’s standards) wrote books and thus the misinformation contained was passed around as gospel.

Now with the availability of the Internet, enthusiasts are able to link up across the world and compare experiences, improving their overall knowledge and good practices in real time. This is why, to anyone familiar with modern bonsai on the Internet, many pre-90 bonsai books are inaccurate and in some cases downright wrong! While some are great references, there is also a number of shocking ones. Though these were considered to be reliable sources at the time, the authors themselves would probably disagree with what they wrote 10, 20, or even 30 years ago.

Acknowledgments
The information contained hereinafter is the culmination of Harry Harrington and Brent Walston's work. Harry is an avid and knowledgeable enthusiast while Brent owns Evergreen Gardenworks, a renowned and specialized nursery that grows “bonsai stock”. This article is not meant as a duplication of what has already been written. One may find copied sections from the original text with hyperlinks to the original articles. The intent is to paint a broad stroke approach to “Bonsai” from beginning to end. Without further ado, let’s begin our journey.

Learning to walk
Rome wasn’t built in a day, nor can “Bonsai” be created in weeks, or even months. It takes years to produce “Bonsai”. Producing “Bonsai” takes time and patience. If you have neither of those, you need not read any further.

Even amongst the more knowledgeable and reputable enthusiasts, opinions and approaches will vary. Brent wrote, “Don't buy a “bonsai”! That is a poor way to begin this fascinating hobby and usually doomed to failure. “Bonsai” is not about “owning” bonsai trees, but rather the enjoyment of caring for them and especially creating them.”

While Harry’s take on the subject is diametrically opposed. “Why is it necessary for everyone to feel the need to create “Bonsai”, particularly when many will fail to achieve anything worthy of being called Bonsai? Creating a good bonsai is considerably more difficult than simply caring for one. People should be encouraged to buy healthy bonsai from a reputable source to at least sate their initial enthusiasm.

The commonly held idea that the average purchased bonsai is by any means finished and would not benefit from 5-10 years work on the branch structure, (improving it’s scale and ramification) or work on its trunk and nebari (improving the lateral roots, their scale and ramification), is very naive. Until an enthusiast truly understands what separates a “good” bonsai design from a “bad” bonsai design, how can they hope to guide a seedling there?

When a beginner has gained the knowledge required to look after a bonsai successfully (both in horticultural and aesthetics terms), then they can go on to the next step, which is to create them. If bonsai is truly an art form as well as a craft, we need to move away from the DIY mentality that states that a bonsai not developed from seedling or raw material by its owner is somehow inferior.”

Harry states that this is not a common opinion in the “Bonsai Community” and I have to agree. Both of these observations have merit and are supported by this author. Having said that, it is my opinion even as a neophyte, that most will not begin their journey with either.

“Many nurseries and vendors sell inexpensive plants in pots and call them bonsai. With care they could become bonsai, but they are not bonsai. On the Internet we have adopted the term “Mall Bonsai” or “mallsai” for these plants. One learns the basics of “Bonsai” best by creating them, even your first one. Without these basic principles, it is unreasonable to expect that someone could keep one alive, let alone maintain it as art. There is also the cost factor. Any “real” bonsai will take at least five years of development to be convincing. To buy such a bonsai would cost several hundred dollars. Of course you can find “mallsai” everywhere, even in grocery stores. These are junk and are not “Bonsai”. A two-year-old juniper cutting plunked unceremoniously into a bonsai pot is not “Bonsai”. It is the care and training that makes “Bonsai”; these plants have none”.

However, in the care of an inspired and talented artist, even “mallsai” can be made beautiful. Here's a classic example. If this seems daunting, well, it is. It takes years to learn most bonsai skills, well, approximately two years to learn the basics anyway. Styling skills are learnt over a lifetime. Well then, how do you start? First and foremost read as much as you can find about bonsai.

Acquiring suitable material
Regardless of what has been said about “mallsai”, most beginners will receive their introduction to “Bonsai” by the purchasing or receiving a “mallsai” as a gift, cute little trees in bonsai pots that flood the market during the festive season. The reason these trees are called “junk” is because they are mass-produced in growing fields, for a quick turn around. The best-grown stock finds its way onto the Asian market, the remainder sold as “mallsai”.

It takes time to properly grow “bonsai stock”, anywhere from 15-25 years and more. During this time, the nursery cares for, and shapes the trees that in turn become “potensai”. The latter is used to depict trained or untrained nursery stock, which may eventually become “Bonsai”. During this lengthy period, nurseries see no return on their investment, all they are doing is pouring time and money into developing potential stock, that is why “bonsai stock” is so expensive, more often than not reaching in the high hundreds and even thousands of dollars. It is quite an investment for anyone recently introduced to the art.

“Mallsai” on the other hand are relatively inexpensive, and some do indeed make good starter material at a reasonable price. The problem often encountered with “mallsai” is that the majority have serious flaws. These trees are the “bottom of the barrel”; the nursery sells these cheap in order to recover their investment. The following article will educate you with the necessary steps for acquiring nursery stock. In this article, you will find important information on what to look for when selecting nursery stock, which, can be applied when purchasing a “mallsai”. Should you choose the latter, refrain from all temptations to purchase from any vendor any tree that he cannot: A. identify for you and, B. provide you with necessary care instructions. Another important factor often overlooked is the acquisition of material not suited for your geographical location. Most nurseries found in one’s neighborhood will only carry material, suitable for your geographical location. You will often find tags attached to the tree on proper care and which zone(s) are suitable for the tree. All bets are off when ordering across geographical regions from the Internet.

Learn to look after your first tree successfully and your confidence will grow enough to widen your horizons and successfully learn more advanced techniques. But don't run before you walk. The first fundamental rule to learn when embarking on this journey is that you are dealing with something living and ever changing; the basic rules of horticulture need be learnt before you can successfully maintain your tree.

Forget about taking your cute little tree and make it into a bonsai overnight, it is not going to happen. Your focus right now is, keeping the tree alive! When you have accomplished that over the course of a year, then you can go on to other things. So what about pruning and wiring etc… forget about that for the time being, your focus should still be on maintaining your tree healthy. How do we accomplish that? Let’s read on!

Plant Selection
Trees can be broken down into two main categories: indoor and outdoor species. Indoor species are often referred to as “tropical” whilst outdoor species are broken down into conifers, evergreens and deciduous trees. Anyone interested in growing bonsai indoors are highly recommended to acquire the following references on the subject: "Bonsai in your Home" and "Ficus The Exotic Bonsai" . The former depicts all species suitable for use as indoor “bonsai”, along with information on the growing conditions required for each species. The latter is a compendium on the care and development of “Ficus” as “Bonsai”. It is my learnt opinion that any serious enthusiasts growing “indoor bonsai”, not armed with these two references are merely marking time. These books along with several other written articles are an absolute necessity for indoor trees to thrive. Without this knowledge, your trees are basically just plants in a fancy bonsai pot. It is impossible to mimic tropical conditions in one’s home, however one can create a suitable eco-system within their means and budget.

Basic Care
All your tree needs is tender loving care, that’s it! How does one apply TLC? Your tree to survive and flourish needs: good soil, to be properly watered, fed and provided with sufficient sunlight to remain healthy. That’s it! Quite simple isn’t it? Well not really, it is a little more complicated than that.

Growing medium (soil)
Let’s begin with the medium your tree is growing in, bonsai culture differs tremendously compared to growing trees in the ground. Everyone is looking for the magic “soil recipe” stop; there is no such thing. What you do need is: a soil that is free draining, oxygenated and retains moisture; the latter is not “potting soil”. So what makes up a good soil? Combining the right amount of organic matter (nutrients and moisture retention) and inorganic components (which provide for good drainage and root development).

Whilst the organic component is normally sifted composted pine or fir bark, the inorganic component is any form of grit; sometimes this is crushed granite, coarse sand etc… small sharp pebbles, about 1/8 – 3/16 of an inch in diameter. This provides valuable air space for oxygenation of the roots, whilst providing good drainage and assisting in evaporation. The other extremely important inorganic component is some type of porous material in the size specified above, which, has the ability to retain moisture (read moisture) not water. This enables the tree to “drink” as required to survive between being watered, this component is crucial to the health of your trees during the hot summer months. This is a necessary component because of our free flowing medium water is dispensed readily. Contrary to what folks might think, trees are not on “IV”, in other words the tree does not take up water on a continual basis. Trees that require water will take it up via the roots when watered, and will only replace the moisture loss trough transpiration, just like you drink when you’re thirsty. In “Bonsai”, you must provide a way for the excess water to be eliminated, as improper drainage will result in root rot, and eventually a dead tree. A free draining soil and a container of the proper size provides the latter.

The organic and porous components in your soil recipe provide a sort of reservoir to replenish moisture loss due to transpiration during the day, until the next watering session. You should be watering your tree daily, sometimes twice a day during the summer months; this is not a golden rule, but a guideline. A good draining soil is one that water starts coming out of the pot as soon as you start watering the soil from the top. Providing your trees are healthy and depending on individual climates, your soil mixture will vary with every individual and region where these trees are grown. That is why there is no “magic” recipe.

When the Japanese refer to sand, they are not talking beach sand, they are talking extremely coarse sand, similar in size as previously mentioned. Soil by their definition does not even come close to what we think soil is or should be. Regular garden soil will not work as it retains too much water. Brent has written an extremely informative article "Why the earth is not like a pot". He goes on to describe why “overpotting” (a common mistake made by neophytes and often, learned artists alike) our trees should be avoided. To grow trees in a pot we modify our soil to suit our geographical area. Listed below is a basic formulae that will get you there, these figures are all by volume not weight:

- for conifers: 30% sifted pine bark, 35% porous material, 35% grit

- for deciduous: 50% sifted pine bark, 25% porous material, 25% grit

- for tropicals: 60% sifted pine bark, 20% porous material, 20% grit

The first one is for trees that like to remain on the dry side; the second for trees that like to be kept moist and lastly for trees who like to remain damp (not sodden) at all times. Depending on your growing conditions, you may need to adjust the components. As trees do not need organic matter to live, I would recommend adding less organic matter if your soil retains too much moisture and adding more “porous material” if it doesn’t retain enough, modify your mix to suit your needs. Harry has recently revised his soil article, the reason I mention it, is because as recent as 3 years ago, soils were different than what they are today and, the present shift in the community is the use of totally inorganic growing medium for bonsais and some are even considering growing them hydroponically, the latter was discussed with “Ficus Jerry”. The medium in which we grow our trees is forever changing but potting soil is for house plants.

Watering our trees
We covered soil and touched on watering in providing our trees with TLC. One would think watering is a simple task, but in “bonsai culture” nothing can be further from the truth. Harry describes basic watering, the effects of watering and the rain and, what to do on holidays. To dispel a rooted bonsai myth you should take the time to read about misting your trees.

Feeding (fertilizing)
I’ve provided you with two of the four components of “TLC”, the third is feeding your trees or providing them with the appropriate nourishment for them to be healthy and thrive. This is probably the most complex component of nurturing our trees. Too little and our trees are under nourished and will put on a sickly appearance, whist too much results in all kinds of problems, including death. Fertilizing your bonsai is critical, the application and what to apply will vary with the seasons and whether the tree is under development or a mature tree. The latter will require what is called a “maintenance program”. It will not be discussed here, suffice to say that, by the time you have reached that stage, you will have acquired the necessary knowledge to apply it’s principals.

Sufficient light
Last but not least, the final component is sufficient light, more importantly, the proper amount of light. If you cannot provide your tree with the necessary amount of shade or sunlight, the purchase of said tree becomes a moot point. If your growing or display area is in the shade, is it not pointless to purchase trees that require full sun and vice versa? Not only will the tree fail to thrive under these conditions, but may eventually die.

Anyone wanting to develop “tropicals” indoors without providing them with 12-16 hrs of supplemental lighting a day is wasting their time. The best darn article on the subject may be found on Jerry Meislik’s site, also known as “Ficus Jerry” and the author of “Ficus the Exotic Bonsai”. When dealing with tropicals, Jerry is quite renown for his in depth knowledge on the subject. I found an article on the American Bonsai Society Site, written by Pauline F Muth discussing keeping tropicals in Northern Zones.

Winter Care
Once you have learnt how to keep your tree alive and healthy by meeting its needs you must prepare ahead of time, depending on your geographical location how to care for your trees during winter. For folks that reside in temperate regions this is not a problem, for the remainder of us, our first winter is something that is feared. Armed with the appropriate knowledge, the latter becomes a moot point.

Basic Skills
Everyone in the beginning wants to have a finished bonsai. As discussed a “Bonsai” is never really finished and takes years to create. I believe a person needs to understand the basics of pruning and pinching not to mention the appropriate timing when these techniques are applied prior to styling their tree. Learning the basic skills required to do “Bonsai” as previously discussed takes about two years. Although, this might seem a daunting task, not taking the time to learn and do it right from the onset will not only delay the development of your tree but your experience as well. Mistakes made in the beginning take years to correct, often-improper pruning results in “spoiled potensai”. The early mistakes cannot be undone; the end result is a mediocre “Bonsai” at best.

Potting
Let’s face it; trees look good in bonsai pots. The truth of the matter is, only a finished or near finished trees should be in a bonsai pot, unless you are completely satisfied with the tree in its present state. One needs to understand the underlying growth principles and how to maximize such growth, towards good trunk development, and initial styling, all that will not take place in a bonsai pot. This is probably the hardest point in “Bonsai” to get across to folks who begin this fascinating journey. Everyone wants instant gratification, which will only come with time. The best method to grow out stock is in the ground; forget about the tree for 5-10 years. The latter, is often impractical and presents certain obstacles. The tree needs to be rotated occasionally unless it is planted in such a location where it receives the sun on all sides. We know that the North side will receive the least amount, that is why grow boxes are used, the shallower the better. Not only do grow boxes provide the capability to rotate the trees to ensure equal growth on all sides, but assists in root development while growing out the stock. They further assist with pruning and most importantly, wiring or the use of “guy wires”, which can be anchored to the box itself:

This tree (Juniperus Chinensis Blauuw) was cheaply acquired as raw nursery stock. As it can be seen, the tree was lopsided, probably the result of cramped growing conditions and the lack of being properly rotated over time, as all the foliage is pointed in one direction. After the tree was cleaned up, this was quite noticeable.

This tree was bought for trunk size, taper and branching low on the trunk, not to mention some important budding in close and on the trunk. The tree was bare rooted, received some minor root work and placed in a grow box. Over the course of the next couple of weeks the tree was examined on a daily basis, unnecessary branches were removed.

Once the majority of the foliage was removed, the tree was studied once again and the trunk line established. The trunk line is a path the tree and branches take that will eventually form the finished tree. A point to note here: “original branching” in most cases will not form or be part of the finished tree.

As time passed more pruning was carried out of all branches that would not be part of the finished tree. Because the nebari was pretty much uniform, choosing a front should not pose a problem. A few “guy wires” were applied and the tree was left to recover. Because of the nebari, the front for this tree will be the result of where the new growth takes place and therefore inconsequential at this time. This tree is 3 - 5 years before seeing a bonsai pot. The tree was 30 inches from the soil line when purchased; I envision a finished tree in the vicinity of 12-15 inches.

Repotting
If the correct container from previous discussion was selected, young trees will need repotting about every second year. Trees are normally repotted during spring. Knowing when to repot your bonsai is of paramount importance towards success. How to repot is as equally important as its aftercare. When it comes to “tropicals”, they can be repotted at any time during the year providing, they are healthy, and they are not dormant. The species guide will indicate when the tree is normally inactive. Keeping in mind that the majority or trees native from the Southern hemisphere have different dormant periods, as their seasons are the complete opposite of ours in the Northern hemisphere. My Bougainvillea to my surprise flowers in the fall, my Adenium (Desert Rose) as well.

Wiring
Wiring is an important part of the process of styling your bonsai and nearly all well designed bonsai have been fully wired at least 2 or 3 times during their development. Though at first a daunting technique to master, it gives the bonsai enthusiast better control and manipulation of the trunk and branches of their bonsai.

Art principles, golden section, visual movement
No doubt the hardest part besides keeping your tree alive is to finally style it. Very few of us are born with artistic flare. We all have some to a degree or another, but the majority of us struggle with the concepts behind it. Understanding the fundamentals behind good bonsai design can be learnt. Understanding the concepts of visual movement and the principles behind the "Golden Section" are paramount in creating an overall harmonic balance in your design. The late John Naka said; “Don’t make your tree look like a bonsai, make your bonsai look like a tree”. No truer words were ever spoken. Many who have applied “this principle” have been harshly criticized for doing so. Nonetheless, the most famous Bonsai have followed all the rules and principles described above, in creating a naturalistic tree that seems untouched by human hands. Most beginners state that they are merely duplicating nature and thus, have styled their tree naturalistically. What they have not yet realized as they chastise the constraints of basic design, is that the hardest style to master is the naturalistic one. Walter Pall is famous for creating natural looking trees. He received harsh criticism for doing so, when he doesn’t receive such criticism, he is disappointed on missing the mark. To Walter, the more his tree his criticized, the better he feels otherwise he believes he has created a “boring” tree. Anyone who has seen Walter’s work knows the latter is not true.

Advance Techniques
I debated long and hard whether or not I should discuss advance techniques in this article. As this article was primarily designed to help folks who begin their journey, I will forego discussing it here. By the time you are ready to delve into the abyss, you will have gained sufficient knowledge of our craft to move forward. However, both Harry and Brent have numerous articles available on their sites, along with progression series to demonstrate the various techniques. You have the links, it is entirely up to you when you chose to read and apply them. One needs to remember that this journey is a long one, and full of rewards. It will take you at least two years to learn the basic skills required. Your mind set after that period will have changed. If you are able to resist (very difficult) creating “bonsai” overnight, your rewards will be tenfold; there will be plenty of time in the future to learn and apply advanced skills and techniques.

My reference material
Following is a list of my reference material. As I began this hobby not unlike many of you, I thirsted for knowledge. It was quite some time before I found and joined any discussion group. In my quest, I purchased books that covered specific details I sought. In my opinion the following short list is a must for anyone serious in practising our craft:

Bonsai It’s Art, Science, History and Philosophy
by Deborah Koreshoff
ISBN 0908175752
Bonsai techniques Vol I
by John Yoshio Naka
ISBN 0930422317
Bonsai techniques Vol II
by John Yoshio Naka
ISBN 093042233
Bonsai in your Home
by Paul Lesniewicz
ISBN 0806907819
Home Gardener’s Problem Solver
by Ortho Books
ISBN 0897215044

The first three books in “Bonsai Circles” are known as bibles! Well the Naka’s are anyway. I have crowned Deborah’s the same. John Yoshio Naka was one of, if not the founder of Bonsai in North America. His books are his lifelong notes and were translated from Japanese. The information contained in his books is invaluable. However, because the books were translated from his personal notes, it often leaves the reader with many unanswered questions, as I found the amount of detail insufficient at times. Vol II seems to have addressed this issue but in no way compares to the depth of detail contained in Deborah’s book. I am not promoting one over the other, as these books can stand on their own merits. However I am willing to say, that if the purchase of the “Nakas” occurred after the purchase of Deborah’s book I would have been somewhat disappointed. Notwithstanding, one has to remember the source of the “Nakas”; these were his personal notes.

I first became interested in Bonsai 20 or so years ago; the information available on the subject was sketchy at best. I was led to believe that all “bonsais” were outdoor trees with special wintering requirements. I’m not talking “overwintering” bonsais, but that they required more or less a solarium, with temperatures maintained between 40 and 50 degrees Fahrenheit. Now with the advent of the Internet and discussion forums, we come to find out it is indeed possible to grow “Bonsai” indoors. “Bonsai in your Home” by Paul Lesniewicz is a great reference for those who prefer growing bonsais in their homes or because they are incapable of growing them outdoors for various reasons, those who live in apartments for example.

In bonsai manuals there is a very short list on pests and disease. The information contained, although somewhat useful, is vague, and thoroughly incomplete, which, led me to the purchase of “Home Gardener’s Problem Solver”. This book contains all known diseases and afflictions your plants, flowers, vegetables and trees may be infected with. Nonetheless, because this book was published by “Ortho” the recommended remedies are with the use of “Ortho products.” Do not despair, they do prescribe the treatment and providing you follow their recommendation as to which chemicals to use, you should be well on your way in treating your tree to full recovery. The latter is really a problem as many pesticides are now banned in Canada. In Nova Scotia, outside of organic treatment of pests and diseases, one is pretty much left to his own devices. However, the book diagnoses the problem you might have in great detail, including pictures of the affliction. The remainder of my reference material:

Conclusion
I hope I was able to offer some insight into this fascinating hobby. Carefully bookmark this article so you can refer to it often. There is a lot of information to digest, but nonetheless necessary. I periodically read a book from my library that I have previously read and I always find new or forgotten information on every read. Welcome to the World of Bonsai, our hobby is a fascinating and rewarding one Good Luck!!

            Fertilizing! Although numerous articles are written on the subject, I find myself with the urge of sharing my experiences and understanding of the subject with fellow enthusiasts. The material written on the subject seems sparse or vague, leaving the enthusiast with more unanswered questions than anything. A favourite saying in the bonsai community is to: “Fertilize weakly, weekly”. There is no doubt this practice will render dividends, and it is safe to do so. On the other hand during the developmental stages, many will promote feeding aggressively, more importantly, feeding with the appropriate fertilizers at the appropriate time.

I guess the proponents in each camp have their reasons, but I believe that perhaps some of these practices were created or established through misinformation and/or myths, or a combination of both. Many references contain a section on fertilizers, but few engage or recommend a feeding regimen. I believe the latter is probably due to geographical locations and product availability. I further believe these references air on the side of caution, which in itself is not a bad thing. With so much information out there on the net let alone in reference material, how do we separate the “chaff from the wheat”? I believe the biggest culprit for the obscurity of this subject may have surfaced during the exponential growth of growing medium components, whilst feeding regimens remained pretty much unchanged in the last decade or so. In the last decade, we have seen growing medium composition make leaps and bounds, going from almost totally organic towards totally inert material. What did not transpire during this growth, is a proportional understanding of a feeding regimen for our trees, or better yet a thorough understanding of how feed is important to the vitality of our prized possessions, under our “current” growing conditions.

A proper program of fertilization is important for the cultivation of all types of plants, but is of particular importance when growing bonsai. There are two reasons for this. First, bonsai are grown in containers. This means there is very little space available from which the roots can obtain nutrients. Secondly, the soil mixtures traditionally used for proper bonsai cultivation are made up primarily of drainage materials (sand, rock, haydite, turface, etc.) and do not contain large amounts of organic materials that would hold onto nutrients or decompose and release nutrients into the soil.

It is therefore important to place your bonsai on a regular feeding schedule during the growing season. The plants require nutrients when they begin to grow and push buds in the early spring, and will continue to require feeding throughout the summer and into the fall (although in the fall the type of nutrients you provide will change (see below)). (Randy Clark)

As some of you know I am partial to Persiano’s “Superfeeding Program” for developing pines and conifers. To some this program is labelled as “Superfeeding” whilst others will call this program just common sense. The key to this program and its subsequent maintenance program is an extremely fast draining soil. On the latter, most folks believe their soil to be adequately fast draining, but is it? A fast draining soil is a soil in which water drains out the bottom almost as fast as it is introduced at the surface. A good potting medium is one, which will readily shed unwanted water, but retain sufficient moisture until the tree is watered once again. Some do not easily achieve this delicate balance. I believe the chief component that hinders their progress is the use of too much organic components in their mediums, or the belief that such a component is needed.

A tree that is properly fed on a regular schedule with all the macro and micronutrients does not need an organic component in its potting medium to survive. All the roots need is: oxygen, water and minerals (vitamins for humans), the latter is provided with feed. Although this conversation may seem to be leading or has the appearance of heading towards totally inert growing mediums, it is not the direction I wish to take. The direction I wish to take is the requirement of our trees to get the required nourishment from their growing mediums. Even trees grown in landscapes etc… in the ground, in the earth, may or may not receive sufficient nourishment from their surroundings to sustain health. Hey, fast food restaurants will sustain life but will also lead to ones demise, in short fashion. Having said that, an organic component produces nitrogen as it decomposes and therefore is a welcomed addition to any growing medium. What is not is the extensive use of this component in retaining moisture in the composition vice using a suitable inert component. Collin Lewis wrote, “For added water retention it is best to avoid the temptation to add more organic matter, but to reduce the aggregate particle size of the grit or, replace some of this component with one of the proprietary granular soil conditioners on the market” ((calcinated clays or similar (Turface)).

            It is far better to play with the inorganic components of potting mediums vice the organic one. Organics decompose over time, and thus will no longer retain their desired original properties in the soil’s composition. The decomposition of this component will lead to soil collapse over time and limit the free exchange of oxygen between the roots and its surroundings. To further exacerbate this dilemma, the Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC) of organic components exceeds that of any inert moisture-retaining component used in our growing mediums. This large retention can lead to the accumulation of unwanted salts in our mediums, leading to the inability of the root system to take up water and nutrients. Plant cells feed by osmosis, when the accumulation of unwanted salts occurs in the container, the process is reversed. The roots can no longer take up water and nutrients; rather the cells loose their moisture and nutrients to the soil.

            I believe the biggest myth that surrounds our chosen hobby is to feed at half strength. It is completely safe to feed your trees in accordance with the manufacturer recommended dosage. Having said that, if the schedule calls for 10-10-10 and all you have available is 20-20-20, then you would indeed cut the recommended dosage in half. What you wouldn’t and shouldn’t do is to reduce 10-10-10 by half and feed twice as often than the recommended intervals. The other one is to use a balanced fertilizer, in general terms this practice is acceptable and safe to do so, until one has grasped an understanding of what the major components in fertilizers actually do, how and when playing with these ratios will benefit our trees.

            I know it has been discussed before, but I believe I need to cover the basic ingredients of fertilizers in order for you to have a better understanding of their use and the role each plays in bonsai culture, just think of it as a refresher. The understanding of the basic chemistry will allow us a better understanding of altering ratios of these key components as the growing season progresses right up until dormancy. The nutritive requirement of our trees varies with the seasons, and this is the key area I whish to discuss, understanding the basics will lay a platform for the reasons we whish to alter these ratios.

Nitrogen is responsible for shoot development and foliage production, in short, for growth. Too little nitrogen results in the plants failure to thrive and will have small possibly distorted leaves and a washed out insipid appearance. With no nitrogen at all, a large plant could die within the year. Too much nitrogen by contrast causes rapid growth, with large leaves and plump shoots that are full of water and consequently, are easy to snap.

Phosphorous is essential for the development and proper functioning of roots. It is commonly used in high concentrations for newly potted stock plants and commercial root crops. Phosphorous also encourages the fattening of woody trunks and branches. It helps establish appropriate conditions for the production of foliage and flower buds. It also enhances the resistance of plant stress and disease. Weak growth and a pale colour may be the result of an oversupply, or even a lack of phosphorous.

Potassium is the main ingredient in the production of fruit and flowers. Increasing potassium in the diet of bonsai apples and azaleas which fruit or flower poorly, will greatly improve their performance the next spring. Potassium also helps in hardening off late growth in preparation for winter. Insufficient potassium in non-flowering trees, results in winter die back. A cheap way to add potassium to the soil is to throw a few handfuls of hard wood ash onto the surface.

            Now that we had the opportunity to refresh ourselves with the purpose of each component let’s look at the different seasons and how we can better apply each of these chief components to provide us with better dividends. In most parts fertilizing starts to late in the season. When reference material calls for resumption of feed in “early spring” this is meant to be March in the Northern Hemisphere. This original feed is like a cup of espresso after a long winter’s nap. It is meant as a quick “pick me upper”. The component ratio of this initial feed is very important.

This initial feed is normally of the following ratio 30-10-10. It is a quick nitrogen boost that is given once in the month of March for flowering & fruiting trees, evergreens, conifers and deciduous trees. It is not given to pines and I will explain later. Depending on the winter this can be carried out anytime from mid month on. The exception to this rule is with pines. Pines have a very peculiar growth pattern and do not benefit from this high nitrogen boost. As a matter of fact it is strongly discouraged. With pines low nitrogen feed is recommended in spring whilst high phosphorous feed is recommended in late summer/autumn. This will encourage small needles and prolific back budding. The high phosphor administered this late in the growing season is stored for the lack of a better word and hence, the tree does not require a cup of espresso upon awakening, it is already wired for sound. To provide pines with high nitrogen feed in spring will reverse what we are trying to accomplish.

This high nitrogen boost is continued during the month of April right up until the first week of May for all trees with the exception of pines and flowering/fruiting trees.

Flowering/fruiting trees receive a balanced fertilizer during the aforementioned time frame, whilst a feed high in phosphorous will prove beneficial during the growing season. The feed schedule is applied right up until the tree is in bloom and discontinued while in bloom. The regimen is resumed once the tree has finished blooming.

For pines slow release fertilizer cakes are sufficient in providing the necessary nutrients for health and growth. In order to keep the needle length short and promote back budding, a feed high in phosphorous is chosen during the growth period. There is a direct correlation between top and bottom growth and that is why Michael feeds the roots aggressively during the growing season.

Some proponents will recommend the discontinuation of feed during the summer months (July-August), whilst others continue during this time frame. I am with the latter camp and feed right up until mid-November. Having said that our trees are preparing for dormancy around mid-August and this is where we as enthusiast must assist them into their winter slumber. We no longer feed as aggressively and the component ratios need to switch to a low nitrogen high potassium feed, to harden off our trees for winter. Regardless of the species all feed is discontinued from mid-November until the end of February.

My products of choice are produced by Plant Products. They do not endorse me, nor have I any interest on promoting their use. The reason I use these products is because they are a Canadian firm, making their products readily available in Canada.

10-52-10 Known as transplant fertilizer. There are many products sold under that name at exorbitant prices. If one were to check the ingredients in transplant fertilizer, they would come to the conclusion that the ratio is 10-50-10. Because I use this product extensively, I buy it by the tub. Every tree I acquire is bare rooted. I believe as others, the sooner you can get the tree established in the proper growing medium the better. I have yet to have a failure in doing so. What I do, that is perhaps out of the norm to increase my chances of success, is that I remove the soil with a water hose vice combing out the roots. I believe that combing out the roots on nursery-acquired stock is extremely stressful to the tree not to mention the damaged caused to the fine feeder roots in the process. By ridding the soil from the roots with water is a more gentle approach in my opinion. The roots will receive very little in form of work carried out with the exception of removing the taproot should it still be present. The tree is fed with 10-52-10 at half strength, with a repeat at full strength 2 weeks later. After 4 weeks have transpired the tree is placed on a normal feeding schedule. The innocuous feed is also carried out during repotting in spring. In this case because the trees are in good growing medium the hose is not required. Shaking the tree and gently combing the roots is all that is required to rid the tree of old soil. This particular fertilizer ratio is also part of Persiano’s Feeding regimen as can be seen in the charts below.

20-20-20 As I could not get my hands on 10-10-10 I use this product at half strength.

15-30-15 “Rose or tomato” fertilizer. This fertilizer is used to feed all my flowering and fruiting trees during the season as specified in the chart below.

15-15-30 “Tomato” fertilizer is the only one I could find as a low nitrogen high potassium fertilizer to use in the fall. This fertilizer is used at 1/3 of the recommended dosage or 5-5-10.

Maxicrop manufactures the following fertilizers. The reason I chose this firm is the availability of their products in order to mimic Persiano’s recommended elements and schedule. A point to note, their fish emulsion is odourless which makes it an ideal candidate for inside the home. Furthermore, for those who manufacture their own fertilizer cakes, the use of this particular brand of fish emulsion in the composition will not drive you out of the house.

5-1-1 Fish emulsion

0.1-1.0-0.1 Liquefied seaweed and liquefied seaweed with iron. Replaces “Roots Liquid” and “Roots liquid with iron”

0-0-3 “Pro-Tekt” is manufactured by Dyna-Grow. It is a silicon-based solution that supplies high potassium to help plants build stronger cell walls. The stronger cell walls provide a protective barrier against piercing-sucking insects and invading fungi. Applying on a regular basis will minimize or eliminate the need to use pesticides and fungicides. Additional benefits include increased stem strength, and leaf positioning of plants, which improves photosynthesis; increased heat, drought and cold tolerance, plus longer lasting leaves and blooms. Used as a supplement to provide protection against fungal and insect infestations.

Slow release “fert cake” recipe

3 cups “kelp meal”

2 cups “garden lime”

1 cup “bone meal”

1 cup “blood meal”

Full strength 20-30-20 diluted with water (manufacturers recommended dosage)

1 oz fish emulsion per lb of dry ingredients. In this case 4 oz

Mix dry ingredients and mix well. Add liquid and further mix to the consistency of oatmeal. Flour can be used as a binding agent. Place on a flat tray, score to form squares, and set out in the sun to dry. Place in a well-sealed container for future use. The mixture can also be formed into balls if one so desires.

The charts below demonstrate the use and frequency of various fertilizers during the growing season. A point to note, plant product fertilizers do contain 2% chelated iron in their formulation.

I hope I was able to offer some insight into this obscure subject. This is the feeding regimen for my outdoor trees. It was compiled from various sources. This feeding regimen has been in use for 2 years now and I have personally seen the benefits of such a feeding program. As stated earlier. To some this is known as superfeeding, to others a good common sense feeding program.

Disclaimer!! Although it is perfectly safe to dilute fertilizers, doubling the manufacturers recommended dosage should not be carried out. The latter can be compared to many cooking recipes where doubling does not achieve the same result and thus, should be avoided at all cost.

Recent discussions have led me to serious reflection. As enthusiasts what are we missing, or need to acquire in order to really prosper in this fascinating hobby both horticulturally and artistically? The answer is not a simple one, but one that nonetheless can and should be reflected upon.

A question that is better answered by each and every one of us is: What has drawn us to this fascinating, sometime challenging and rewarding hobby? We each have our reasons and beliefs why we practice the art of “Bonsai”. It has been stated many times that “the journey” is a long one, what draws us to it, better yet what inspires us to continue along this torturous frustrating, and often challenging path? Unlike acquiring a degree of some sort, a bonsai education takes a lifetime; the degree is never truly finished nor acquired. The reverend “masters” will openly admit, “There is so much to learn, I have refined my skills over time, but mastered none”. So once again, what are we trying to achieve and, more importantly, how do we get there?

Raising a bonsai from a cutting or a seed is not unlike raising a child, from the moment of conception we are fascinated with “new life”. The conception part is relatively easy and painless; the developmental stages on the other hand are plagued with uncertainties, frustrations and rewards. As the first newborn arrives home, the uncertainties set in. How do we raise the infant, it’s our first? How do I know what it needs, when it needs it, and what upsets the balance? We trudge through it and, low and behold we attend their graduation. In that time frame we have not only educated and nurtured the infant into a functioning adult but have acquired an education ourselves in the process. Raising a child teaches us much; the growing seedling is no different.

We armed ourselves with literature, surrounded ourselves with family, friends and more experienced professionals to aid us on our journey, in order to see this child rise to fruition. But every one has a different opinion and difficult advice. How do we apply these principles to our chosen craft? The similarities are so alike that it is nearly impossible to distinguished between the two.

Bringing the child home   
We take our infant home from the nursery only to find out that the formula the neo-natal unit had the child on is not available or is no longer suitable as he/she has developed an allergic reaction to it. So we quest the market for a suitable substitute to meet its needs and feeding requirements. Finding the right baby formula is not unlike finding the proper soil components so our “younguns” can grow to maturity. As a child, a tree requires moisture and oxygen to live; the latter is provided by a free draining soil along with proper watering techniques.

A child will tell us when it is ready for its bottle; a tree on the other hand will often display its malcontent in a more subtle fashion. When parched a trees leaves will often droop, indicating not unlike a crying child it requires to be fed, or in this particular case, watered. When a tree loses its leaves out of sequence, or they turn yellow, once again it is not unlike a child who is crying because of a bout of colic or having a soiled diaper, it is merely the trees reaction to its living conditions. Feeding a child too much, results in a bellyache, and whilst our trees may not get a bellyache, they will demonstrate their discomfort by throwing their leaves. It is their way of telling us, they require immediate attention, as our current course of action is simply not acceptable. Should we persist unknowingly or otherwise with the current course of action, in an act of self-preservation, the tree simply turns itself off. In some cases, many will seed and bloom prior to their demise as a selfless act of preservation in the hope of propagating the species. That’s how “Mother Nature” intended things to be, when human intervention is not a factor in the equation.

Contrary to popular belief a tree is not on intravenous, it only takes up the moisture lost through perspiration, and therefore watering excessively will soon lead to its demise.  A child that is fed excessively intravenously will also succumb, drowning in its own fluids. The tree with sodden roots will react similar to a child that requires its bottom to be changed. Imagine how miserable you would feel having wet tootsies for days on end. Wouldn’t you throw a conniption as well? A common affliction of WW I veterans was trench foot disease. The fungus was a direct result of, hours spent for days on end in water-laden trenches. The comparable affliction of our beloved trees would be root rot.

The dirty diaper
A diaper not unlike a bonsai pot, that is full or crap will lead to numerous afflictions. Albeit, the child will not succumb to a “crappy” diaper, it sure can make ones life miserable until dealt with. A tree, not unlike a child, enjoys the luxury and warmth a clean diaper provides, or in the case of the former, free draining soil, free of crap.  As you wouldn’t think of covering baby’s bottom with heavy cotton, the same consideration should be given on soil components selected. How is the latter accomplished? Component size is of great importance when mixing our substrate. Let’s take a look at what the substrate does for our trees. First and foremost it anchors a tree to the pot, until such time as the roots have colonized the pot and have attached themselves to the sides and bottom of the pot. Until this colonization transpires, anchoring the tree to the pot with wire is the method most widely used. Secondly, it must provide an avenue for retaining moisture in order to replenish fluid loss during the day. Thirdly, it must provide a medium for the tree to find its nourishment on demand and, last but not least must provide the free exchange of oxygen for the lungs, uh, I mean roots.

The first component is any form of impermeable aggregate available in your area. Natural aquarium gravel could be a source, as well as flushed “crusher dust” or coarse sand for that matter. The component of choice is crushed granite, which is sold in feed stores as  “chicken grit”. One must be careful when using this product, as it is often found that “crushed oyster shells” are also sold as chicken grit. Whilst the former is a great aggregate, the latter is a pour choice due to its high sodium content. The component size should be anywhere from 1/8” – 3/16”. This size has been found suitable for the majority of trees grown as bonsai, although 1/16” components would be more suitable for “mame” bonsai.

The second component provides the moisture retention capacity of the soil. This component is usually any form of permeable material like lava rock, haydite, calcinated clays etc… although “perlite” may possess attributes desirable in bonsai substrate, its greatest disadvantages is it is unsightly and floats to the surface, in doing so, will often lead to soil collapse For these reasons perlite is seldom found as a component of any decent substrate. Although some folks will/may add an organic component to the substrate, this is the main “feeding” component of bonsai substrate. It has the capacity to store up to 50 times its weight with water and nutrients. Therefore, it has the ability to both water and feed the tree on demand, whilst maintaining the preferable moisture content of the substrate.

The third component found in our substrate is any type of organic component of the aforementioned sizes that although decomposes readily, will not cause soil collapse during the decomposition process until subsequent repotting. Fir bark has been found suitable for this means. Another component widely used, and possessing similar properties is known as “ pine soil conditioner”. Although, this component is readily available at most garden centers in the US, I have failed to source an outlet here in Canada. Of late, I have started using Sequoia bark (available from the Orchid Society in my area) it size ranges from 1/4 - 3/8”. A quick trip in the blender renders my preferred component size, the same can be said of Schultz “Orchid Mix” that is readily available throughout Canada. Although the particles are much larger than preferred, once again a quick trip in the blender will solve this inconvenience. Another added benefit of using “Orchid mix” is the addition of horticultural charcoal in the mix, which has proven over the years to be extremely beneficial to plants and trees.

The most important factor when developing and mixing bonsai substrate is component size. We use particulate matter of a certain size to provide a free flowing area for both water to drain and oxygenate the roots in the process. Components of varying sizes would lead to closing of the air spaces we have so diligently provided our trees with during the triple sifting process required to generate a proper bonsai substrate.

Peat moss or peat as it is often referred to, has absolutely no place in bonsai substrate and should never be used. Learned enthusiasts have long drawn the conclusion about its use as unfavorable. Why you might ask? It retains too much moisture! The second reason is its relative inability to regain said moisture once dry. What one will often see when watering the tree is, that although the tree has been thoroughly watered, the soil is still dry. The water has found the pass of least resistance and exited the pot. If one were to sift just below the surface one would be amazed indeed to find dry soil. Probably the chief disadvantage of using peat is the compaction of the air spaces between the components, the latter leads to inadequate oxygen exchange in the substrate.

The ill-fitting diaper
We have discussed formula; lets discuss the consequences of an ill-fitting diaper and how it relates to our chosen hobby. We all know the results of an ill fitting diaper, it either fails to adequately share the load or if too large, fail to adequately contain the load. How does a diaper compare to a bonsai container? Quite simple! The bonsai container, not unlike a diaper has a specific function in the tree’s life. A properly fitted diaper not unlike a properly sized container, which drains well, is warm and comfy.

Unlike a diaper, (although the new ones are now designed for little boys or girls due to their physical differences) a bonsai container is at times species specific. The watering requirement or uptake of individual trees will often play an important role when choosing a suitable container. The sole purpose of a container (with the exception of anchoring the tree and display purposes) is to act as “a dinner table”. The tree should be able to eat what is placed on its plate in one sitting, and only replace the moisture loss during the course of the day, until the next watering takes place. Hence, the warm comfy diaper! The latter is easier said than done, so let’s reflect on the tangibles here. In the beginning, more often than not the root mass dictates the size of the container. This is where the similarities end. Whilst as a baby grows the need to increase to a bigger size in maintaining its comfort becomes paramount, in bonsai culture we do the opposite. In subsequent years, this mass is reduced and eventually a container aesthetically proportioned is chosen. In doing so, there is always a caveat. The chosen container must be able to assist in sustaining life. Not only must it be of adequate size to meet the trees demands, it must also be suitable in meeting the trees living conditions and climate. An ideal container is one that will drain freely and allow the substrate to contain only enough moisture until the next watering, while providing sufficient surface area to keep the roots cool during heat waves at the height of the summer. Should the container fail to provide these conditions the results is either a sodden substrate or a parched one. Albeit, in the short term this may not be hazardous to the tree’s health, the tree will not develop its full potential, will put on a sickly appearance and in the long run could invariably lead to its demise.

So how does one choose an appropriate sized container? The size as mentioned is dictated by the root mass, for the most part. The daily intake of the species iaw the species guide permits us to formulate an educated guess, while keeping in mind the moisture retentiveness of the substrate. Contrary to popular belief, a shallow pot will retain more water than a deep pot, regardless of the surface area due to the perched water table. I will not discuss this phenomenon here as a link can be found in the “Learning to walk…” article, which discusses it at great length. Suffice to say that keeping this known phenomenon in the back of our minds will play dividends in the long run. Regardless of the size of the container, the perched water table exists at a height pre-determined by the resistance of the substrate composition, adding a so called “drainage layer” serves no useful purpose with the exception of adding false peace of mind to the enthusiast, as the perched water table will form above said drainage layer. Manipulation of substrate components on the other hand plays an important role alongside container size and tree uptake.

A proper container is one of suitable size for the tree’s requirements, is aesthetically pleasing, complements the tree vice causing a distraction and last but not least, provides enough space for bottom growth until subsequent repotting, not unlike buying slightly oversize clothing for a growing toddler.

Vitamin supplement
With daily feedings both our child and trees are prospering. As they grow their needs change, therefore we must modify their daily intake from straight formula to something more sustaining. With a substrate containing an organic component, the mere decomposition of this component will provide the tree with sufficient nutrients to sustain life, but in many cases insufficient to really prosper. This is further exacerbated in totally inorganic substrates. A direct relationship can be extrapolated between the necessity of daily vitamin intake of humans, found in particular foods or an appropriate vitamin supplement. Our trees on the other hand receive their nutrients as discussed via the decomposition of organic matter. Although the decomposition provides adequate nourishment, our trees require certain micronutrients to thrive. Understanding the nutritional deficiencies of our trees is paramount to healthy growth. A multi vitamin containing the appropriate minerals can be found in balanced fertilizer, one that has an even distribution of Nitrogen, Phosphorous and Potassium. Nitrogen is responsible for promoting strong stems and healthy dark leaves. A lack of Nitrogen will result in thin, weak shoots and small, yellow leaves which rapidly fall. On the other hand too much Nitrogen produces sappy stems, large leaves both of which are vulnerable to fungal attack. Whilst Nitrogen is the main components for sustaining life in plants, phosphorus is necessary for strong, healthy roots and for prolific fruit production. A deficiency reduces root growth causing general poor vigour and discoloured foliage. The last component is potassium which is necessary in balancing the effects of Nitrogen, is essential to flower production as well as promoting resistance to fungal disease and generally hardening off the tree against harsh environmental and climatic conditions.

Not unlike a child who later develops and affliction and requires special care, certain tree species have specific needs when it comes to their growing environment. The alkalinity of the soil plays an important role and is one that is often overlooked. Having said that, no harm will come to the tree if the PH level of the soil is not exactly correct. The easiest method in lowering the alkalinity for trees that require a slightly more acidic soil is the occasional feeding of “Miracid”. I have had difficulty on acquiring such a product in my locality; however, any good “coniferous fertilizer” containing an NPK of 30-10-10 will do nicely when applied a fortnight or even every second fortnight at half strength. This is the simplest and safest method to lower the soils PH.

An anemic child who has developed an iron deficiency is given iron supplements. In bonsai culture the affliction is Chlorosis, the latter is caused by the lack of iron in the soil. Whilst iron is insoluble the natural action of the soil transforms this necessary mineral making it available to the tree. Although iron is not a part of the chlorophyll it must be present for the compound to form. In alkaline or neutral soils iron can be “locked up” thus appearing, as it is deficient. This often happens when excessive amounts of lime, phosphates or heavy metals are present in the soil, poor drainage or where over watering is practiced.

Growing trees and siblings
We seem to be getting along well and have a little experience under our belts, so we decide to bring a second one home. Are things the same? Well maybe, but probably not. Ask any parent – they will tell you each one is different and the same applies to bonsai. Although of the same species, some trees not unlike siblings will react differently to practiced methods. Once again not unlike siblings each one will respond differently and has specific needs. These needs must be met and maintained in order for the child or bonsai to develop its full potential. I have two Fukien Teas, Fred and Ginger, they are indeed brother and sister, and for the love of me I have yet figured them out. They have been in my possession for 3 years now. Their behaviour is mind boggling to say the least. While one is flourishing, the other throws a tantrum and vice versa. I have yet for the love of me been able to have them fully satisfied at the same time. This constant battle in meeting their demands is not unlike parenting children. Just when you think the battle is won, they throw a curve ball at you.

Not unlike brothers, or brothers and sisters, different cultures have different needs and demands. The learned enthusiast has gained the necessary experience to deal with these individualities. And although one can treat its collection as a whole, one must remain cognizant of their varying needs and cater to those needs on an individual basis. Regardless of the experienced you have gained, not unlike parenting; don’t pat yourself on the back yet. You have raised six children into well-adjusted adults, and then the seventh child comes along and throws everything you have learnt out the window. None of the previously proven methods and rules seems to work; this one has turned your world upside down. Isn’t parenting and raising bonsai fun!

A trip to the dentist
Mother nature has taught us to avoid unpleasantness or things that make us downright miserable. So please explain why one would take a tree home, break its arm, set it, place it in a cast, not to mention giving it a root canal along the way and then expect it to be happy and prosper. Wouldn’t it be better if the first trip to the dentist were a pleasant one, vice a root canal? I am pretty sure that a child is more apt to return to the dentist if the past experience was a pleasant one. A tree not unlike the human body needs time to recuperate from surgery. As with humans doing numerous surgical procedures all at once, without recuperation and mending time is indeed life threatening.

The first thing one should do when bringing a tree home from a nursery is change its diaper, wash its bottom, and place it in a warm comfy one. In bonsai talk this translates to: bare rooting the tree, placing it in bonsai substrate suitable for the species, fitting it with a proper container for its current stage of development and give it its first meal (a dose of 10-52-10 at half strength followed by a dose at full strength 2 weeks later). Which is more apt to provide positive results? If the latter cannot be accomplished it is better to leave the tree in its current soil and pot until such time as you can properly take care of it.

Acquiring an education
Bonsai not unlike a toddler takes time to develop and master the lessons learnt. The parent through thoughtful nurturing and caring accomplishes the latter. Like a child a bonsai needs time to nurture and develop. This developmental phase is either carried out in the ground or a grow box of suitable proportions. It is not conducted in a bonsai pot. During this developmental phase the tree is pretty much left on its own to develop and flourish, only necessary “shape pruning” is carried out, not unlike correcting faults or unwanted behaviour in a child. As the toddler develops it is soon time to attend kindergarten and for a bonsai, receives its first training pot. This is when and where the formal education and training will take place. In the case of the tree when the trunk has reached the desired proportions. Over the next couple of years the tree is pruned, shaped and trained. Like a child, it is receiving its formal education.

While acquiring an education, for the lessons to be successful and comprehended, the teacher must teach at a level easily understood by the child. It is further understood that one will not progress to the next phase until previous lessons have been understood and mastered. The bonsai enthusiast also needs to apply these principles while nurturing its tree. Too much all at once only leads to confusion. Not unlike the child the tree was not capable of taking in the information, as it was incapable of following the path of instruction provided by the enthusiast. This is also comparable to receiving multiple surgeries all at once. The body, as the tree needs time to recuperate between surgical intrusions. In bonsai talk this translates to “growing seasons”. Now finally one may be able to comprehend why it takes so long to develop a bonsai, regardless if it was grown from seed or acquired from a nursery. The only difference between the two is time.

Adoption
Acquiring Yamadori or nursery stock is comparable to adopting a child, someone else has molded it and although it may have been provided with a sound up bringing, it may possess faults that require correction, or have to repeat a grade in order to correct training flaws. The advantage nursery stock or Yamadori have over seedlings and cuttings, is that the enthusiast will generally acquire these trees with the developmental phases already carried out (girth). This phase for the purpose of this discussion is known as primary school. Once a tree has matured to the level prescribed herein it is now ready to commence high school. In this case a bonsai pot.

I have recently switched over to Linux, more specifically to Kubuntu (Feisty Fawn 7.04), which is Ubuntu operating the KDE desktop as a user interface. Linux is not for the computer illiterate, the learning curve is steep, but the rewards far outweigh the complexity IMO.

I was tired of all the BS that surrounds the MS operating system and MS products as a whole. You may wish to compare Linux and MS metaphorically to Beta and VHS. We all know that from inception Beta was far superior as far as quality etc... than VHS. Unfortunately, the popularity/availability of VHS over Beta won the race. Was that a good thing? I believe if Beta's availability was greater the consumer would of had a choice, isn't that what free enterprise is all about ...choice?

Maybe it's because I am getting old (I sound like Andy Rooney), I believe in innovation but do not necessarily believe in following "the" program. Who's program? We are now living in a world where folks are flocking like sheep at the gate to follow "the" program. Instead of we as consumers or just plain human beings voicing our opinions and disgusts wrt what is going on. We have become a generation where convenience is a daily operative word. In doing so many core values are freely exchanged for the minor convenience(s) rendered, whether it be the gun legislation, Sunday shopping or whatever... Statistically speaking far more people are injured talking on their cell phone while driving than non criminal acts of firearm accidents. The gun legislation has not taken guns off the street so to speak. It has indeed increased the difficulty of law abiding citizens in acquiring guns for recreational purposes, but has not hindered criminals. If I, as a law abiding citizen acquire an AK47 in a matter of weeks, what does that say about our gun legislation? Scary isn't it? Hey! but we are all part of "the" program.

I recently had a long debate with some friends on the subject of "the" program. It seems that the younger generation support "the" program, whilst the older generation has misgivings wrt its application. Now, we are not talking about very young and the very old here, we are talking 30 comparative to 50. The most misused word in today's vocabulary IMO is... it's convenient. When a person can no longer discuss the merits of the conversation, they simply reply because it is convenient, not realising the implication surrounding the fallout of such actions.

An example of convenience can be seen with self "check out" found these days in most large stores. What is the ramifications surrounding this convenience? The fallout from this convenience is job loss, beneficial to the company perhaps, but not to the public at large due to employment opportunity loss. Regardless of arguments it can be summarized as "greed" on part of both the consumer and enterprise. Folks use the self check outs to avoid long line ups. The solution open more registers = employment. I had a discussion about a couple of months ago on this very subject, whereas folks could not see the pitfalls. I even had a teller (my age) that stated that self check outs do not necessarily result in job lost, but increase in customer convenience. There we go that word again. To me this word is as repulsive as saying F... Anyway we went on to discuss this observation. I stated "one teller to look after 5 cash registers. Are they paying you more for this service since you are looking after 5 tills vice 1? She said no. Then, 4 people are out of a job, while ensuring customer satisfaction and throughput. This is just an example and I am sure we can argue the merits of both sides until the cows come home, but I'll refrain from this tangent and bring us back to the subject at hand, Linux and the subject of "choice".

Because I believe in innovations (Linux/Unix is not really innovation. It has been around for quite some time, just not in the average household), I got on with "the" program so to speak. Not the mainframe program, but my program, one of which included choice. As a consumer I chose to distance myself from "the" program, so to speak, and the reasons were simple. I was tired of spending copies amounts of money maintaining the convenience of home based PCs.

This tiredness resulted from the frustration of having to constantly upgrade software because of fixes to the MS operating system, that rendered a good portion of software incompatible with the newly fixed MS operating system and so on and so forth. Bill did not build an empire (because that is what it is) by being stupid. I have said for years that the software and hardware industry have been in bed with each other. Build it and they will come! That is something we have all heard. Create a demand, and the consumer has no choice but respond accordingly.

Windows is an extremely user friendly OS, but it stops there IMO. I'm looking for software compatibility enjoyed by Mac users and a stable platform that doesn't require rebuilding every 6 months or so, because of some imposed fix from MS that renders your platform unstable. Mac metaphorically speaking can be compared to Beta and VHS. When Apple created the "Mac" and their operating system, they did it right IMO. When they created their software, they insured it was compatible not only with the OS, but with the other designed software for use on the "Mac".

Now it can be argued that MS is in this pile of "doodoo" because of consumer demands. The one stop shopping syndrome. Regardless of what "what is" as long as I can get it in one package, I am happy. Years ago I used to run a memory manager, that used RAM more efficiently then allowing "Windows" to decide when and where to use it. To the many uninformed, this was indeed a good solution. Was it efficient? No! In days of old, we needed to reboot our systems because of "low resources", do you remember those days? A comparison might be like borrowing money, in this case RAM. Windows used to borrow, but never pay back hence, lack of resources. Memory managers were like debt collectors for the lack of a better word. They knocked on Windows' door demanding payment of said debt, and "windows" obliged. It's not that windows did not honour their debt, they were to busy trying to manage memory to actually take a time out and pay their debt. They appreciated a third party taking part in this interaction, but couldn't really be bothered until pestered. When discussing "choice" this is but one example where IMO a win win situation was not only created but existed. A need was created by "windows", this need was fulfilled by a third party (creating opportunity and sales, not to mention employment) and offered the consumer a "choice", whether they wished to allow the inadequate memory management offered and packaged by "windows" or use a third party in the management process. "Choice" formed an integral part of "convenience" Are you still with me?

So why did I switch? Elementary my Dear Watson! I was sick and tired of daily crashes, sometimes up to 20 a day, because of incompatibility issues, not only between "windows" and software, but incomparability issues between "windows" and hardware. Some of the fixes were no longer compatible with your hardware configuration, so you were forced to shell out more dollars to fix the associated problems. Allot of the fixes were security related, therefore the need to constantly update your OS. At times these updates rendered your Virus software incompatible or worst inoperative, leaving you with 2 choices, become vulnerable or upgrade. The biggest incompatibility issue lies with IE6 and better and Mc Afee. There are indeed better virus software out there than Mc Afee, but they all have their faults, some more than others. Talk to the gurus and you will get a 10 to the power of, answer.

For years I enjoyed the luxury of a corporate license, permitting the use of the software in the home, for business related issues. Now that I am retired, I no longer fall under this luxurious umbrella. When software is no longer compatible, I need to fork out money. The only reason I still maintain MS products on my PC, is because I still have kids in school. The missus and I do not need any related MS products for our daily computer interactions. That's one of the reason I did the switch.

I updated my tower (built myself) under supervision and decided that Ruth and I do not need MS or any other product in our lives for what we use a PC for. The old system was reformatted and a clean install of Windows XP Pro, was carried out. During initial installation before I could get around to putting Virus software and spy killers on the machine, I was attacked by 117 robots of which 2 were viruses, not harmful viruses, but viruses nonetheless that would not allow me to install McAfee. I couldn't get rid of the virus, so it forced me to start anew. The following day, I disconnected the NIC card and reinstalled everything prior to registration and activation. I was fortunate and now have a clean system. For how long? God only knows! To reformat this PC takes hours, vice minutes. I require 168 updates every time I reformat, this is only going to get worst as time goes on.

To further exacerbate my computer woes, as of January 2008, "windows" will no longer be supporting previous software releases so they can concentrate on Vista. It is not that updates will no longer be available, but new problems, security or otherwise will no longer be fixed. Talking to the public at large, and the gurus, Vista is probably the worst OS that MS has released. Because of what has been discussed herein, now you now why I decided it was time to make a switch, where I can at least control my destiny. I had a "choice"

Don't get me wrong, Linux is not for everyone, especially to folks who have basked in the luxury that Windows and GUI (graphic user interface) offered the public at large but, De gustibus et coloribus non disputandum est , there is a Linux flavour for everyone.

As I mentioned "the" program and its "convenience" made the average PC user lazy because of GUI. When our systems fail we take them to the shop for repair at $85/hr, a "convenience" that was mentioned in the discussion I had last WE. I would rather fix my own problems then shell out hard earned cash to someone else. I would rather spend this money on something else, bonsai for instance (since this is a bonsai forum) which brings me greater pleasure and less frustrations than maintaining a PC. By all means computer shops are needed as this not only creates employment opportunities, but remains a useful resource when all else fails.

GUI has rendered us lazy and therefore the need for PC repair shops was created. When we take our PCs to the shop, isn't it funny that they seldom use GUI to troubleshoot your system, but rather command line entries (DOS or programming language of one flavour or the other). Not everyone is interested nor has the capability of operating in this fashion, for sake of convenience if nothing else.

My switch was rather seamless, because of previously learned basic computer skills. The learning curve is not as steep to me because of previous experience using command line functions, and hence why I chose the "flavour" I am now operating, which permits a large portion of GUI and has the ability for those inclined to use the "shell" (Command Prompt). It is a hell of allot easier to correct "a file" vice reformatting the whole system. You can argue that this is also possible with "windows" and you are absolutely right. However, it seemed to me it would become a weekly task.

So you might ask why would one switch over? Stability! and the growing popularity of the OS from industry, to the common household. I believe that open source software is the way of the future. It not only allows the consumer a choice, but because of "open source" provides the consumer with multiple choices of what OS is better suited to meet "their" PC demands. The alternate sollution? Vista! sorry that is all that will remain after January, so I jumped on the band wagon now rather then be forced later. It was my "choice"

What I have seen so far (1 month) is a OS that is stable, does not require to be rebooted (some systems haven't been rebooted for years), can you say that categorically with "windows"> We have become accustomed to: when all else fails reboot, a neat way of realigning your OS. A good OS system does not require continual alignment of its components IMO. The downside of switching? MS software for the most part is obsolete. It can be run through emulation, but not all is compatible for emulation, for the time being. The flip side of this argument, is that one would need to upgrade MS software regardless in the future to maintain compatibility with the OS. My freedom! I do not need to change software, update it, or upgrade it if all is well. Once again it comes down to choice and the freedom thereof.

This is an example of why I believe in Linux's future:

My step-daughter created homework on her father's PC operating Vista which runs MS Office 2007 out of the box, which in turn you will need to purchase after X times used from MS, how convenient. Anyway her PPT could not be opened at school. She should have saved it as a 97-2003 file and it would have worked fine, but. Anyway I opened the file in OpenOffice (Linux version of MS Office) I was not only able to open it, but also save it as a PPT 97-03 file. Her homework can now be run at school. I ran it under MS Office 2000 at home (other PC) not a problem. All my old MS files are accessible in OpenOffice. She was thrilled I was capable of saving the day, and so was I with the power of Linux. As you know you can open older version on newer versions, but not the other way around, at least that is my understanding. I was pleased with what I was capable of doing. I am sure as time goes by that I will be enlightened further wrt this OS. To date I am tickled pink!

Because the core of Linux allows you to build upon the "kernel" to suit your PC needs, it doesn't have all the extra baggage "windows" bundles just in case user X requires it. The payback, a super fast and stable system. Oh! I almost forgot. Are you frustrated these days of constantly having to reopen help files or whatever, because of only one desktop? I can operate up to 20 from one monitor. Now that is a nice feature for what I do. Like cut and paste from various parts of the Net into one document. I only have my system set up with 4, but isn't it nice to know that I have another 16 available should the need arise, and the best of all, it's free an a button click away. Now! not only is that performance, but Choice.

In closing, I am sorry I took so much of your time but I did indeed think it was a worthwhile read. There is allot to be said about returning "choice" to the consumer vice "convenience" Thank you for your time and patience.

Best regards,

Rick

PS: What is "the" program again?

I'm a recently retired serviceman with 32.5 years of active service. I have many hobbies of late (in the last 4 years) I have taken up growing bonsai. I find this form of art very satisfying amidst its frustrations. The peace and tranquility this pass time brings has left me content in the enjoyment of my twilight years.